Ẩm thực - Chapter 8: Stocks and sauces

 Chapter 8Stocks and Sauces 1Chapter Objectives1. Prepare basic mirepoix.2. Flavor liquids using a sachet or spice bag.3. Prepare white veal or beef stock, chicken stock, fish stock, and brown stock.4. Cool and store stocks correctly.5. Prepare meat, chicken, and fish glazes.6. Evaluate the quality of convenience bases and use convenience bases.7. Explain the functions of sauces and list five qualities that a sauce adds to foods.8. Prepare white, blond, and brown roux and use them to thicken liquids.9. Prepare and use beurre manié.2Chapter Objectives (cont’d)10. Thicken liquids with cornstarch and other starches.11. Prepare and use egg-yolk-and-cream liaison.12. Finish a sauce with raw butter (monter au beurre).13. Prepare the five leading sauces: Béchamel, Velouté, Brown Sauce or Espagnole, Tomato Sauce, and Hollandaise.14. Prepare small sauces from leading sauces.15. Identify and prepare five simple butter sauces.16. Prepare compound butters and list their uses.17. Prepare pan gravies.18. Prepare miscellaneous hot and cold sauces.3 The importance of stock in the kitchen is indicated by the French word for stock fond, meaning “foundation” or “base.”4Stocks and SaucesA stock is a clear and thin liquid that is flavored by soluble substances extracted form meat, fish, and poultry, their bones, and from vegetables and seasoning. The French call a stock a fond (“base”) and is the foundation for many classic and modern dishes5Ingredients of a StockIngredientsBonesMeatMirepoixAcid productsScraps and leftoversSeasonings and spicesWater or remouillage6Vegetable StocksMade without animal products Made with a combination of vegetables, water, herbs, spices, and, sometimes, wine.Sautéing the vegetables ahead of time will mellow flavor.Do not use intense flavored vegetables, like Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, or artichokes. Dark green leafy vegetables like spinach will cloud the stock.7BonesBones are the main ingredient of stocks (except water)Chicken stock from chicken bonesBrown stock from beef or veal bonesFish stock from fish bones and trimmingsWhite stock – Veal or beef bones, chicken bones and pork bones sometimes in small quantitiesLamb, game, turkey, lobster have specialized uses8MirepoixThe second most important contributors to flavor in a stockIngredients:Onions @ 50%Celery @ 25%Carrots @ 25%A white mirepoix is made without onions to keep the stock colorlessIn a vegetable stock a variety of vegetable may be used.Cut mirepoix coarsely in uniform size.9Acid productsHelp to dissolve connective materialSometimes used to extract flavor and body from bonesTomatoe products for brown stocksWine, especially for fish stockScraps and leftoversCan be used if clean, wholesome, and appropriateRemember a stockpot is not a garbage disposal10Salt is generally not used in a stock. Stocks are frequently reduced, concentrating the salt flavorHerbs and spices are to be used at a minimum, so they will not dominate the stockSachet bag - herbs and spices places in a cheesecloth bag and tiedBouquet garni - an assortment of herbs and aromatic vegetables tied together (leeks, celery, thyme sprigs, bay leaf, and parsley) Seasonings and Spices11Blanching Bones- ProceduresThe reason we blanch bones is to get rid of the impurities that cause cloudinessProcedures for blanching bones:Rinse in cold waterPlace bones in stockpot or steam-jacketed kettle, cover with cold waterBring water to a boil - impurities will coagulateDrain the bone and rinse wellFish bones are not blanched12Preparing White StocksCut the bones into 3-4 inch piecesRinse the bones in cold waterPlace bones in stock pot and cover with cold waterBring bones to a boil, reduce to a simmer, remove scum- ICKAdd mirepoix, herbs, and spicesKeep at a simmer, not a boilSkim surfaceSimmer for 3-6 hoursStrain through a cheese cloth and china capCool quickly and refrigerate13Remouilage A stock made from the bones that have already been used once to make a stock.The French call it “rewetting.”14Procedures for Preparing Brown StockCut the bones into 3-4 inch piecesPlace bones in roasting pan and place in a 375° F oven until well browned, usually about an hourDrain and reserve the fat from the roasting pan. Deglaze the pan with water Add mirepoix and vegetables to the roasting pan and sauté until golden brownBring bones to a boil in stock pot, reduce to a simmer, remove scum- ICKAdd browned mirepoix and vegetables to bonesKeep at a simmer, not a boilSkim surfaceSimmer for 3-6 hoursStrain through a cheese cloth and china capCool quickly and refrigerate15Reductions and GlazesA glaze is a stock that has been reduces until it will coat the back of a spoon. It is solid and rubbery when refrigerated.Glazes are used as flavorings in meat, fish, vegetable preparationsMeat Glaze – Glace de viandeChicken Glaze – Glace de volailleFish Glaze – Glace de poisson16Ingredient ProportionsBasic stocksBones – 50%Mirepoix – 10%Water – 100% or to cover17Convenience BasesA commercially-produced productAvailable in a powdered, paste, or cube form Generally considered inferior to a well-made stockCheck the label for salt content, which is generally high, may be the first ingredientPossibly can save labor cost18Other Foundation ItemsCourt BouillonNageGlaze19SaucesA thickened liquid plus seasoning, used to enhance food items Fine sauces are made by:Using well-made stocksUsing high-quality thickening agentsAdds: Moistness Appearance Flavor Richness Interest and appeal20Structure of a SauceA liquid, the body of the sauceA thickening agentAdditional seasonings or flavoringLiquids to make the “Mother Sauces”:White stock – for velouté sauceBrown stock – for brown sauceMilk – for béchamelTomato plus stock – for tomato sauceClarified butter – for hollandaise 21Thickening Agents RouxWhiteBlondBrownRoux ProcedureMelt fatAdd flour and mix thoroughlyCook to the desired colorIncorporating Roux into a LiquidCold stock into a hot rouxRoom temperature into a hot stock22RouxFatButter - preferredMargarineAnimal fatsVegetable fats and oilFlourBread flourProportionsEqual parts fat and flour- A good roux is stiff not runny or pourable23Other Thickening AgentsBeurre maniéWhitewashCornstarchArrowrootLiaison - Egg yolk and cream liasonWaxy maizeInstant starchesVegetable puréesBread crumbsFinishing TechniquesReductionStrainingDeglazingEnriching with butter or creamAdjust seasonings24Sauce FamiliesMother or Leading SaucesBéchamel sauce - Milk, white rouxVelouté - White stock, White or blond rouxEspagnole (brown) sauce - Brown stock, brown rouxTomato sauce – Tomato plus stock, optional rouxHollandaise - Butter, Egg Yolks25Standards of Quality for SaucesConsistency and bodyFlavorAppearance 26Small SaucesSecondary leading white saucesAllemandeSuprêmeWhite wine sauceDemi-glaceHalf brown sauce plus half brown stock, reduced by half.27Butter SaucesMelted butterClarified butterBrown butterBlack butterMeunière butterCompound buttersBeurre blanc28A compound butter is made by incorporating various seasonings into softened whole butterThe ingredients can be combined in a blender, food processor, or mixerCompound Butters29Modern SaucesBroths and jusPuréesCream reductionsSalsa, relishes, chutneyAsian saucesFlavored oils 30Clip art images may not be saved or downloaded and are only to be used for viewing purposes.Copyright ©2007 John Wiley & Sons, Inc.31